> Cracks on the front face, along the spokes
> The wheel is "warped" which means that the barrel is twisted
> Chrome wheels which includes curb rash, chunks missing
> Chrome clad wheels
> Cracks on the back side of the wheel
> Curb rash
(includes powder coated/painted, machined faced, hyper-silver or ghost chrome, or polished wheels
> Bends on the back side or face of the wheel (exceptions)
> Chunks missing (exceptions)
> Color changes such as custom colors or color matching
> waddled out lug holes (exceptions)
> Oxidation on the inside of the barrel
When on the balancing machine the wheel moves left & right.
There are so many different types of repairs that can be done on wheels... here's what we can & can't do...
Wheel Remanufacturing is utilized for structurally damaged wheels, including those that are cracked or severely bent. They are repaired using state-of-the-art CNC technology and digital profiling. This process involves stripping the wheel of its former finish, welding (if required), and safely cutting the surface with a CNC lathe. Once the wheel is cleaned, powder primed, painted, and powder clear-coated, it is oven-baked. Wheel Remanufacturing utilizes production processes similar to those utilized when a wheel is manufactured.
ENDLESS COLOR OPTIONS
Aluminum wheels have a tendency to crack if they get hit hard enough. How hard enough depends on a couple of factors - how brittle the alloy is, the design of the wheel, and the tire's aspect ratio being the most important. Usually, a deep pothole or raised manhole cover is what does it. Cracks are extremely dangerous, and not just for the obvious reason that they can let the air out of your tire. The issue is that the crack is going to grow.
There are some important issues to take into account when deciding whether to weld a cracked wheel:
The location of the crack: the only type of crack that we believe is even marginally safe to weld is one on the back, or inboard side of the wheel. A crack on the front face of the wheel compromises the structural integrity of the wheel, as does a crack on one of the spokes. A crack inside the barrel can be repairable in most cases.
The direction of the crack: Most of the time, a crack on the back side of the wheel will cross the flange and bead area at right angles to the direction the wheel spins. This type of crack can be welded, because it can be opened up to accept the weld. A crack that goes parallel to the spin of the wheel can be welded as well.
The skill of the welder: Aluminum alloy must be welded with a process called tig welding. Compared to many other shops around, our shop foreman has had 25 years experience welding. He is a perfectionist at everything that he does and safety is his #1 priority when it comes to the structural integrity of a wheel.
Ideally, the wheel should be straightened before welding. An impact that will crack a wheel will almost certainly have bent it as well, and trying to substantially straighten a wheel after welding stands a good chance of breaking the weld.
A weld will never, ever be quite as strong as the original material.
Wheels can bend for a variety of reasons, but usually some form of impact is involved. Whether potholes, raised manhole covers or curbs, there are plenty of obstacles out there that can bend a wheel. Because the spokes have to be on the front side of the wheel, it's almost easier to bend the wheel on the back making it difficult to see the bend when the wheel is on the car. In these cases the bend usually announces itself by causing the car to vibrate.
Never, ever allow anyone to hammer out your aluminum wheels, as the most likely outcome is a cracked or destroyed wheel.
Heating the wheel in the spot to be repaired softens the metal & makes it much less likely that the alloy will crack under pressure required to straighten the bend.
> Gloss black
> Flat black
> Hyper silver
> Dark hyper silver (gunmetal)
> Vehicle color matching
> choose from one of our hundreds of silvers
> Painted pockets with machined finish
• Do not wash freshly reconditioned wheels for 24 hours.
• After 24 hours, wash the wheels by hand and continue to wash the wheels by hand only for the first 4 weeks.
• Always cool hot wheels with plain water before using soap. Never wash wheels when they are hot. Road salt, dirt and brake lining dust must be washed off thoroughly. Otherwise, the finish of the wheel may corrode.
• Do not use any cleaner or wax on freshly reconditioned wheels for 4 weeks.
• After 4 weeks and after washing again, you can use an acid-free cleaning agent on the wheels. Any cleaner that uses acid will damage the clearcoat and substrate.
• Also after 4 weeks, a good wax should be rubbed onto the clearcoat and continue to do this about every three months. The wax will help protect the skin of the clearcoat from foreign matter build-up.
• Abrasive polish or other abrasive agents should never be used. Should the protective layer of the clearcoat become damaged, it should be repaired immediately.
AVOID CAR WASHES at all costs!